In the Nineteen-Fifties and Sixties, most Omega
Constellations were marketed through jewellery and specialty outlets, and so
when one encounters a bespoke, solid white gold Constellation that was made
especially for the first ever dedicated Omega boutique, one’s pulse can be
expected to quicken a tad. Seen below is
one of the rarest Omega Constellations ever made, so rare that I have only ever
clasped my eyes on one similar, but not exact, example.
At 35 millimetres in diameter, this almost-pristine ‘montre
bijoux’ piece was delivered in 1969 to Omega’s official Swiss distributor,
Gameo, at a time when there was a growing interest in dress watches. While the
style of lugs has rarely been connected to cases that housed 56x calibres, the
design is very similar to the dress model 163.0001 powered by the ultra-thin
calibre 712.
The Omega Museum identifies this model with the reference
number 368.4098 - the 3 prefix indicating
watch head and bracelet were together from conception – and it has a calibre
564 under the dial. It took the museum’s
Charles Bernhard some time to pour through its Swiss distribution records
originally maintained by Gameo to connect the number 7190 appearing on the
inner case back with the reference number and indeed the history behind the
watch. Four digit case numbers were exclusive jewellery
designs normally reserved for high-end outlets that had enough clout to procure
examples that were outside Omega’s normal range.
Gameo was the national Omega distributor in Switzerland. It's owner, Charles Bauty, is credited with opening the first
single brand boutique in the world in 1964, selling only Omega watches. His first Omega boutique was established in
Geneva under the brand "Les Ambassadeurs", named after the Café Les
Ambassadeurs on the Rue du Rhone that he purchased and converted. It's still
there. He later established an exceptional boutique in Zurich in 1971. So,
given it’s delivery date, I believe this watch was retailed through Les
Ambassadeurs in Geneva.
It’s not certain if this piece was a one-off order for a
specific client or was created as an Omega showpiece for Les Ambassadeurs, but it certainly fits the criteria for what I
term a ‘gloves off’ watch, where it’s perfectly acceptable to temporarily park
one’s scruples and go into battle for it, Geneva Convention be damned! It’s a
true collectors piece
Great detailing in the clasp as well
ReplyDeleteI agree. It's a finely executed piece :)
DeleteCheers
Desmond
The lugs are different, but the general case styling is remarkably similar to my Cal 564 from 1966 with a recessed crown in stainless steel.
ReplyDeleteYes, the case body looks very similar to a 168.004 or 010 case with substituted lugs. Diameter is 35mm too.
DeleteCheers
Desmond
This watch look like the one my Father gave me. Can anybody help suggesting where to take it for cleaning and appraisal? I am in Orange County, CA. Thank you!
ReplyDeleteHi Elena. I don't know anyone specifically in Orange County, but ABC Watchworks in LA has a good rep.
DeleteIt is better to opt for a non Omega service agent because the Omega service agents are both expensive and have a particular service regime that could affect the value of the watch.
Cheers
Desmond
Desmond Guilfoyle how do I contact you directly with questions about my 195? constellation ... I have done enough online research to realize YOU can probably help identify my dad's constellation from the 50's.
ReplyDeleteif you have some time, I would like to hear your opinion ... please contact me ... thanks in advance.
Just post your email address. I won’t publish the post. I’ll contact you
ReplyDeleteHi, I own a similar example. If you are interested for your records, please let me know and I will send you pictures of the watch.
ReplyDeleteYes, it would be interesting tio see another example of this piece. My email details can be accessed through the About Me button. Thanks for your offer.
DeleteCheers
Desmond
Email sent.
DeleteBest.
Hi Desmond, not sure you got my email as I have not received any answer from you.
DeleteNo, it hasn't arrived. I was wondering about that :)
DeleteThis comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
ReplyDeleteI had to delete the comment because it included an email address, which would have sent the spam bots crazy. It could have been file size maybe?
DeleteNo problem. I have sent another test email to your address. No answer from you so I guess my emails can’t reach you... you better check this on your side as I am 100% sure this issue does not come from me.
ReplyDeleteYes a mystery. I sent a test email from another account and it came through. Thanks for trying
DeleteHi Desmond, I sent you an email last night. Thank you. -Katie
DeleteA beautiful watch. I have recently been given an omega 18k constellation with a case back number of 7190 which has unusual lugs also. It appears to have the same dial as the one in your article but with different hands. I was wondering if you would like to see some pictures and get your opinion on the watch. Kind regards
ReplyDeleteHi Mike,
DeleteYes, sure, love to see some pics.
Just click on the About Me to access the email address.
Cheers
Desmond
I have an omega constellation. How can I determine the age and model?
ReplyDeleteIt isn't all that difficult.
DeleteFirst do a google image search of the brand perhaps qualifying it with 'vintage'. That will give you a general idea of model and when it was produced.
If you want specifics, have a watchmaker take of the case back of the watch, and note the movement serial number, and the number stamped on the case back. The serial will allow you to date the watch by using the Omega Vintage chart on the Omega website. The case back number will tell you the model
Cheers
Desmond
Hallo Desmond, I did send you an email with pictures and description of another very special Grand Luxe with case back ref 7109 and #990254. Please comment or give me an answer.
ReplyDeleteThanks Konrad
Hi Konrad,
Delete've just done a search of my emails and I cant find it. I have been travelling overseas, but I cant recall seeing a Grand Luxe. Can you resend
Cheers
Desmond