Omega Constellation 368.0852 - A Good Buy for 2012

 Good Buys come and go, and yesterdays good buys often become tomorrow’s not-so-bargain-basement acquisitions. As in real estate, where land prices of suburbs surrounding more desirable suburbs eventually succumb to market pressure from those buyers whose budgets do not extend to the premium-priced real estate, vintage Omega Constellations attract a similar phenomenon.

For example, because the price of a really good quality stainless steel pie pan model 168.005 has now broken through the premium barrier, there has been strong upward pressure on prices of the ’cheaper’ calibre 561/564 models and integrated bracelet calibre 751 versions. The next ‘suburbs’ away from the C-Case and Integrated collections are Constellations powered by the calibre 1011/1021 fast beat series.

Thanks to the rehabilitation of the reputation of the calibre 1011/1021 series, the general consensus now is that well-preserved examples of this series are worth collecting. As long as you source a watch that has not been neglected, frankened or overly refurbished, you can reasonably assume that, with regular service, it will serve you well and increase in collectability.

So what 1011/1021 models are the best of the good buys?

I would like to nominate the “TV” dialed stainless steel 368.0852 (stamped 168.059 on the inner case back) as an excellent candidate for a good value entry-level vintage Constellation. Described in Omega literature as the “rounded square” dialed integrated bracelet models, a 368.0852 in good condition can be purchased for $300 - $400, the price at which C-Shapes with brickwork bracelets commanded a couple of years ago.

The rounded-square dial in the stainless steel version reflected the trend away from circular dials. A brushed silver dial surface echoed the case finish and the armoured hesalite crystal was flush with the case, creating the illusion of dial and case being of one piece. Faceted markers with large black onyx inserts offered good contrast, and stick hands paid homage to minimalist tastes of the time.  Various dial designs were available,  but my favourite is the design that does not have the minute index.

Overall, the 368.0852 is a little less chunky than its predecessors. It has a nice, uncluttered design story, and at 33mm by 39.5mm makes an excellent bracelet watch.  The 18 karat gold version below showcases its clean lines and understated elegance.

In sourcing an example of this model, there are a few checks that you would be well-advised to make. Firstly, ensure that the movement is a chronometer rated calibre 1011. This can be confirmed by examination of the decal on the train bridge (shown below) which will have printed around the perimeter "Adjusted to five positions and temperature". Secondly, the case is a key-bolt compressor type where case body and case back are secured with four screws.  Some dealers are loathe to open the case back because they don't know how, but its very important that you have large clear pictures of both the case back and movement so you can check identification marks and the condition of the movement.

Thirdly, inspect the movement for tell-tale wear on the rotor (the copper/beryllium coating may be worn after coming into contact with the case back). Look for consistency of colour in the coating, check for scratches and damage on the rotor and bridges, and look for overly burred screws and for rust on case clamps and the steel components of the movement.  You can afford to be discriminating when evaluating these models because tens of thousands were produced and thus you can exercise patience until a good example surfaces.

Fourthly, the numbers stamped on the inner case back will read 168.059 and not the model number 368.0852.  This check is important to ensure than a calibre 1011 has not been placed into a 168.057 case that looks identical (reflecting a somewhat common practice of substituting the discredited calibre 1001 with its successor). Finally, look carefully at the finish of the case and ensure you hold out for an example that has its original brushed finish, as why would you want anything less than original when there are so many of these watches around?

Over time, I've seen these models priced in 'Buy It Now' listings on electronic auction sites from $200 to a very fanciful $950.  Expect to pay from between $300 to $400 for an example in good condition. At that price you're getting a hell of a lot of watch for your money.

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