The 168.0055 (watch head), also known as the 368.0850, is one of the less common calibre 1011
integrated bracelet models to be produced in the earlier nineteen-seventies. While they're not rare by anyone's
definition, they're also not plentiful, and make an excellent entry-level
admission into the world of collecting chronometer grade Omegas.
Powered by the calibre 1011 – see here for a review of this
family of movements – the 168.0055 came in a range of dial colours and styles,
including maroon and blue. Both plain
and ‘knurled’ bezels were available, depending on the metal content of the
watch. The model above has a 14k solid gold knurled bezel to match the 14k gold
inserts in the bracelet.
The 168.055 case has a more classic design story than the heavier
integrated bracelet day-date model 368.0851 and its predecessor, 368.0845. With a case size at a little over
35mm, it is a sibling design to the 168.0061, another less common variation
powered by calibre 1011. Dial furniture
is consistent with other models of the period, featuring gold hour markers
framing quite thick onyx inserts on some models and pointed stick hands. The watch is less ‘dated’ than some styles of
the nineteen-seventies, the round knurled bezel adding a dressier feel.
A jewellery version of this case style was released in a
limited quantity by Omega in 1980 under the model number 468.0802. Featuring a solid gold dial, the hour markers
and bezel were set with a total of 80 diamonds, a fitting accessory for the
Gordon Ghekko wannabees of the heady nineteen-eighties.
Values fluctuate with metal content and dial colour, and I
have seen them fetch at auction anything from USD 350.00 for a stainless model
with plain bezel to much more for the two-tone examples. A good comparative rule of thumb is to align
values with what a good 368.0851 would fetch.
If you're looking for a less common and dressier version of
the chronometer grade calibre 1011 collection, then this model is well worth
your consideration.
Hi there. I'm from the Philippines and I got this Omega Constellation from my dad. He said his dad gave it to him. It's pretty old but the style looks very nice. The problem is its already rusty and pretty much needs restoration. When I asked for restoration services it costs a lot of money. Anyway, totally unrelated question to what I just said. I wanna know what model of Omega Constellation that I have just so I could read about it (or info from you would be great since I'm assuming that you know a lot about Omega). Anyway, if you're willing to help then you could email me (I'm not demanding, I just don't know where to find your email address) at karlnikkotan@yahoo.com. Help will be much appreciated. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteJust go to the rh column where my profile is, click on it and then click on the email tab.
DeleteHappy to look at your pics.
Cheers
Desmond
Hi Desmond,
ReplyDeleteI got a vintage Omega Geneve cal.1012 Maroon (webbed tv dial).
If I'm correct the 1011 is the chronometer and the 1012 isn't...no more differences true?
Anyway my 1012 Geneve will not wind on any of the 4 programs on my watchwinder.
My 168.045 winds perfectly and the 1012 winds great on the wrist...
Any idea why a 1012 movement will not wind on a winder?
Cheers,
Guido
Hi Guido,
DeleteCorrect. No differences except the chronometer grade movement went through more rigid selection of parts, but they are the same in design.
Hmm your issue with the Geneve is fascinating. The 101X series is known for needing to be on the wrists of non sedentary and active people, and I assume that the winder just doesn't have the level of vigour needed.
But, I generally advise that vintage movements, particularly high-beats, are not left on a winder as that is effectively giving them a harder life, logic being that when a watch isn't going there is no possibility of wear to the drive train or escapement. I know it can be a bitch re-setting a watch, but I think your Geneve is telling you something :)
Regards
Desmond
Thank you again Desmond, I really appreciate you sharing all the knowledge.
ReplyDeleteSetting the 1012 is easy, so no issues there..I love my Geneve...it is the first real watch I bought myself when was 18 living in Caracas at the time. The 751 is 18.800 beats if I'm correct (so not a real high beater as the 1012 which I took of the winder now!).
Would the 751 be ok to leave on the winder?...I wear the watch about twice a week, just too little to keep it going by itself. Would you recommend resetting the 751 once a week or leave it on the winder? Thanks again!
Same advice withe the 751 Guido as the 101X calibres. My view is that vintage pieces shouldnt be left on a winder for the reasons I gave above.
ReplyDeleteYou sound as though you're building quite a collection. Good on you
Regards
Desmond
Hi. Desmond.
ReplyDeleteI have the watch on the top of page. Gold/ss
Any idea on replacement value.
ReplyDeleteGlobal internet value would be around 1000.00 dollars max, although I have seen one or two cheeky sellers ask for more. Insurance replacement value, would be around four times that because the calculation is made on what it would cost to replace the watch with something similar, but new, today.
DeleteI have almost the same as the first picture .. I have made complete service at Omega service center and they made it just like new, but the band has broken and I don't know where to repair it as they requested a huge amount of money to repair it at Omega.. anyone can advise ??
ReplyDeleteHi,
DeleteYou don;t mention exactly how the bracelet is broken, but it depends on the metal content of the bracelet damage.
For example, if the gold links are broken, you could take the watch to a manufacturing jeweller or goldsmith and ask them to repair the damage.
If the stainless steel part/s is/are broken, then one option would be to scour the internet and ebay etc., and buy a replacement bracelet for parts.
The Otto Frei or Jules Borel companies in the US may also have replacement parts, after which an ordinary watchmaker should be able to replace for you.
Regards
Desmond
Hi
ReplyDeleteI bought a 2Toned constaletion Automatic from an auction. With the 166.0261 ref. I have mine as a Day Date and i cant seem to find even a picture of an other one from the internet?
They should be around. I'm assuming you are referring to the cal 1020 model with the coin edge bezel and integrated bracelet. They did come in two-tone
ReplyDeleteI just bought the same beauty from an auction too and can’t seem to find… anything on it. It’s exactly as you described.
ReplyDeleteYes, they are a bit of a sleeper, but that means prices aren't over the top.
DeleteCongratulations on your acquisition.
Cheers
Desmond
Hi, I just buy 186.0055 two tone. Most sellers state that it is 18k gold and a few 14k gold. I couldn't find anything on the official website.
ReplyDeleteYes info is hard to come on many vintage models, but as mentioned above the two-tone models are 14k bezel and links. Easiest way to tell is that 14k is yellower/lighter than 18k.
ReplyDelete