Ultra-thin watches, a ubiquitous fashion statement in the nineteen-sixties to the eighties are gradually making a comeback. A number of Swiss brands have of recent times offered a twenty-twenties interpretation of the svelte and elegant mechanical marvels that sat comfortably under the cuffs of connoisseurs and trend-setters three to five decades ago. As much a statement about their competency in micro-mechanics as a response to an emerging demand from consumers who have tired of watches the size and weight of small tanks, these new offerings have the potential to interrupt the horological fashion cycle.
Some of the biggest luxury brands in the world have now added ultra-thins to their slate, and the list is growing: JLC’s Master Ultra-Thin, Richard Mille’s Ferrari (the world’s thinnest watch at 1.75mm), Chopard’s L.U.C. XP, Lange & Söhne’s Saxonia, the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate, Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo, and even Hublot has transformed its Big Bang into a kind of damp squibb with the release of the Classic Fusion ultra-thin. The ‘Hautes’ have been joined by mid-level brands such as Nomos, Junghams, Hamilton, Mido and countless budget marques in the race to capture a share of what is perceived to be a growing market.
Having admired for decades the magnificent range of ultra-thins produced under the Omega Constellation badge, I, for one, am delighted with the news that thin could soon be in, because a knock-on effect may well be a rediscovery of a genre in which Omega excelled during its golden years as the world’s premier sub-haute-horlogerie brand. Largely overlooked by the mainstream Omega collecting community, Omega ultra-thins at this moment can be acquired at a considerable discount. (See here for a comprehensive survey of Omega’s ultra-thin output)
Imagine my glee when collector, Edmundo K, chanced upon a stainless version of the jewellery model 157.0002 that I hadn’t seen before. An extremely affordable entry into the elevated world of ultra-thins, this example is 7mm thick and 34mm in diameter, and is a beautifully fashioned competitor to the hellishingly expensive contemporary offerings by the top brands. Featuring an integrated bracelet, minimalist dial design and a genuine hero of a movement, what more could fashion-conscious sophisticates of the twenty-twenties ask for?
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