White on Black!






For some time, I have believed that all genuine black Constellation dials came with gold lettering, however, thanks to Per Baun Christensen, a Danish collector of Constellations, I have had cause to change my mind.

The dial featured in this post belonging to Per is a genuine dial and this can be determined quite easily by examining the script and other features on the dial. The close-up of the Constellation script shows authentic serif font that matches perfectly with factory specifications. Complimented with rhodium skeleton hands and double baguette faceted quarter-hour markers in rhodium, the dial has aged evenly. The case, movement, crown, dial and hands are all to factory specifications.

Gold lettering is clearly more common in black dialled Constellations than white lettering, because it appears that more black dial Constellations were produced with gold hands and markers. The standard appears to be that black dials with rhodium plated hands and applied hour markers have white lettering and those with gold hands and markers have gold lettering.

The example shown here is in stark contrast to most black dials with white script seen today. Refinished examples vary in quality and accuracy, with most being detectable at a simple glance.

So, thankyou Per Baun Christensen for helping us add to the knowledge of black Constellation dials!

Open Heart Surgery



Revolution Magazine, one of the newer and more 'hip' watch magazines (and let's face it, most Western countries are getting more hip.....and more thigh, more stomach, more man boobs etc., etc. these days!) is very generous with its archive content.

The magazine describes itself as Independent, bold, passionate, shamelessly hedonistic and unrepentantly technical in its search for the haute horological nirvana - sounds to me like the psychological profile for your average 'horological petrolhead'!

It lives up to its claims, and in volume 5 offers an excellent technical and photographic essay on the "heart of the watch" - the escapement.

The magazine also operates the horomundi blog at www.horomundi.com

For a pdf of the essay please click here

All that Glitters Isn't.........



They do say that plagiarism is the greatest form of compliment, but plagiarising solid gold Omega Constellations of the 1960s is one compliment the brand can do without.

With the advent of Chinese and Vietnamese fake solid gold Constellation cases coming to market powered by Franken movements, the Connie collector has yet another hurdle to jump in the quest to acquire examples that meet the true identity tests of the line.

This essay identifies the key identifying marks of genuine solid gold Constellation cases from the 1950s and 60s. The most common case makers are revealed (something that most manufactures are averse to do) and a number of 'national production' Constellations are also canvassed.

My thanks to Louis Flocco, Evan Morgan (who, since the beginning, has unfailingly supported this project to gather as much information about Constellations in one place as possible) and others who provided input.

To download the essay please click here. It's a large file.

The History of Gold in Watchmaking

As a prelude to a post next week on solid gold Omega Constellations of the 1950s and 1960s, here is an essay by Lucien Trueb that appeared in the Gold Bulletin, titled 'Gold in Watchmaking'

Rich in both technical and historical information, the article pays homage to those many important, but faceless, artisans who create magnificent statements of style and function in the cases they produce.

Please click here to download the essay